by Grace Claro
Fashion Editor Grace Claro talks to renowned Irish womenswear designer Colin Horgan about being a creative in Ireland, his highlights from London Fashion Week, and the mechanics of running a womenswear brand from his studio in Kerry.
Originally from Kerry, Colin Horgan completed his BA in Fashion Design from Limerick School of Art & Design in 2014. He then moved to the UK where he graduated from the MA in Fashion Womenswear programme at the Royal College of Art in 2017 where he closed the show with his visually stimulating collection “Brisk”. The first Colin Horgan ready-to-wear collection debuted at the On/Off Presents SS19 full show in September 2018 at 180 The Strand, London Fashion Week. His designs are preferred by big names in the music industry including Lady Gaga, Dua Lipa, Ashnikko, ChaelinCL, Brooke Candy, Tierra Whack, and Ava Max. His trademark ‘Buzzsaw’ earrings and ‘Defender’ jacket were worn by Mabel in her ‘Boyfriend’ vertical music video in 2020. Littlemix has also been added to Colin’s list of clientele. His designs were worn by Leigh Anne Pinnock in the music video for their song ‘Confetti’ featuring Saweetie, released in April 2021. Two-tone iridescent taffeta is a signature material in his collection. His work delivers high fashion silhouettes with a utilitarian and industrial edge.
In 2020 Horgan relocated to Kerry during COVID-19 to set up his manufacturing in Ireland, in particular where he grew up in Ardfert, just a short distance outside Tralee.
Grace Claro:
How would you describe your aesthetic in three words?
Colin Horgan:
Elevated, Detailed and Dangerous
Grace Claro:
As a student of both Limerick School of Art and Design and the Royal College of Art in London, who were your early influences when it came to designing fashion and womenswear specifically?
Colin Horgan:
I guess growing up I would think that historical Thierry Mugler and Alexander McQueen were hugely inspiring. I think for me it wasn’t just about the actual clothing itself. For me what was so powerful was the world these designers created through their shows. I’ll never forget watching a Mugler or McQueen show. I loved how all the guests in the show were almost entranced by their energy. There was no one too busy trying to record every second of it for their followers on social media. The audience experiences a range of emotions at the shows which are always pure magic. But I think what is even more magical is that each individual will leave with their own interpretation of the experience.
Grace Claro:
What does your design process involve? How do you bring a garment from creative concept to material reality?
Colin Horgan:
I think for me I am very fixated on the ‘woman’ I’ve created. I’ve worked quite hard to figure her out. It almost sounds strange that I know her so well because she’s actually someone that doesn’t exist. My starting point is always about her journey, her environment and how she feels. Sometimes I think that she actually is my alter ego. I guess maybe that’s how I feel like I know her. Once the story is getting some substance I usually start with a technique. By technique I mean the look and feel of the garment. For example, are edges raw to all the garments based on her environment? I would build on this for some time and then navigate the silhouettes and forms quickly after. More than likely after a few prototypes, we would push to create a full look and test out closures, accessories and styling choices. This is a critical part of the process as it would determine the look and feel of the collection and there would be enough time to make alterations and changes if needed.
Grace Claro:
What are your thoughts on the representation of Irish designers in London Fashion Week and what were the highlights of the experience for you?
Colin Horgan:
I think the BFC and London Fashion Week are supportive of their neighbours and the talent that comes from Ireland is definitely nothing to be sneezed at. I like how all Irish Designers use some sense of where they come from in their work. It’s refreshing to see and from my own experience, we as a collective are definitely taken seriously as a breath of fresh air in such a complicated and challenging industry. Highlight wise, I think the whole experience with a team is quite special. When you surround yourself with different kinds of creatives that are equally as passionate about your work as you are, how can that not be a highlight on its own!
Grace Claro:
You emphasise made in Ireland as part of your womenswear collection, what does this involve?
Colin Horgan:
I’m very lucky to have been able to return to my hometown Ardfert while still having a presence abroad. Everything from my work is now made in Ireland from the design process to its manufacturing, we are doing everything in house.
Grace Claro:
Are you experiencing any personal costs or disadvantages by trying to work sustainably and locally?
Colin Horgan:
Of course, I’d be lying if I didn’t. You do have to make sacrifices and I am a little bit of a control freak and won’t swallow my pride to cut corners on the locality of my work. There are pros and cons to this of course. I just have to keep that momentum going to know that it is a special product from start to finish.
Grace Claro:
How has Covid-19 affected your work? Has it, as with many creatives, given you an opportunity to dig deep and reevaluate your work, leading to new ideas and innovations? Or has it been detrimental to your creative process and has it led you to miss out on valuable career opportunities?
Colin Horgan:
It definitely has. I am not too shy to say that the industry is unusual and often unpredictable. You depend on press outreach to drive sales, stores to take you on to cover your overheads, and content to stay relevant. I decided to take a break for/from the season, so it does make you wonder who you are and what you want to say. When Covid-19 hit Ireland I had just moved into a new unit with new machinery and a new drive, but had to close my doors to taking in a team so I feared the worst. During that time I actually started working for other companies in digital branding. I did consultancy work, lectured and started to step into the music industry as a DJ. So I’ve been able to keep busy despite the pandemic. I’ve started new work and it’s been great but I think now I am more driven to create excellence with the other projects I have been involved with during the lockdowns.
Grace Claro:
You are based in Ardfert, Co. Kerry, what led you to set up your studio remotely? Do you predict that more people will decide to move out of cities and set up in more rural areas?
Colin Horgan:
I loved London but felt it was a little distracting and lacked space (for the mind). I love cities but I think that my studio in a rural setting allows me the freedom to create without all the noise if that makes sense? I think because the world has quickly started to become digital, I think if you remain to have some connection with a city which drives a lot of traffic then I think you can be anywhere in the world.
Grace Claro:
What vision do you have for your brand into the future?
Colin Horgan:
That each season is better and stronger than the previous one.
Keep up to date with Colin’s work and new projects on his Instagram @colinhorgan and go to his website to shop from his collection.
